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When curating a roll of London’s best restaurants, one might anticipate familiar high-end venues. Yet, tucked high among these gastronomic titans is a unpretentious salonu found in a far-flung corner of north London.

An Unexpected Accolade

The small Turkish eatery, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the 4th top restaurant in the metropolis by a respected culinary publication. This honour has made the owners utterly astonished.

“I am totally astonished,” remarks the proprietor, alluding to his parents’ hard graft that led to their modest place securing such a high position on a notable 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

The small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its conversion into a sought-after food hotspot, has maintained much of its earlier feel. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking display, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy space,” says the owner.

The Namesake Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all down to the food, and this eatery definitely excels. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a succulent texture.

It is then tossed into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. Once the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to take in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is wrapped securely inside.

The wrap is usually consumed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful punch of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A prominent food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is doused in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a more intense, toastier and more balanced profile.

Surpassing the Giants

Interestingly, this modest spot has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, similar experiences at luxury establishments can start at significantly more than that price.

A Philosophy of Hospitality

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an expensive city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I do not subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is most important is friendliness, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is echoed by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he was in a role of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

A Journey of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t apprentice at fancy establishments. “I am really proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants take years to find their footing, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum was extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a personal life but her friends would visit to support her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

A Achievement for the Community

This restaurant’s recognition is bound to resonate outside its own doors. “I believe many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the wider importance of this gastronomic triumph.